A 24 year old human who likes to draw stuff, especially comics. This is my personal artblog where I will post doodles, WIPs and finished artwork and also text posts with ignorant opinions. I'm doing my best. Enjoy your stay!
Why did you not dip the g-pen in very far? I’m like 90% sure you’re supposed to dip far enough to cover the breathing hole in the middle, then scrape the underside of the nib against the top of the bottle lightly to remove any excess ink.
That’s odd, I have always been told NOT to dip the pen nib too deep; both by my comic teacher from college and from the books I own that introduced me to pen nibs back when I was a rookie.
I’ve never heard about covering the hole on the nib, but it would make sense since almost every pen nib has one.
It’s not like the way I dip my nibs is “doing it wrong”. The only difference is that the pen runs out of ink faster. And that hasn’t been a issue for me tbh.
I think it’s kind of a personal preference really.
Awesome tip; my sister’s a writer so I’ve retumbld for her benefit :D Really interesting so thanks for sharing!
A little bit more information about how fngerprints can appear on gilded objects etc:
the skills of gilding is all about preparing the surface with the right base coating. It is adviced to not touch the area with bare hands since it can leave marks and fingerprints that will later be visible once you apply the gold leafs.
So if your sister wanna apply this little knowledge in a plot, remember that the fingerprints show up if a person touched the object before it’s coating is dry enough and before the metal leafs were applied.
Another nice thing to know is that a very skilled gilder can make brass look like it’s gold. Aka “cheating”, same goes for using aluminium leafs to fake silver or white gold.
The difference between brass leafs and actual gold leafs is that gold will stick on the object longer before it starts falling off after several years.
And also gold leafs that are 22karat and higher does not oxidate and loose it’s color.
There’s quite a range of different golds starting from White gold (only 6 karat) and up to 24karat gold.
There’s some pretty ones in this range, for example “moon gold” that is 22k but looks like a very very warm silver.<3
Woah it starts so messy and ends up so lovely, is this tricky? You seem to be having fun :)
Thanks! And yes this is such a relaxing and satisfying thing to do! I’d definitely recommend it as a hobby! I always leave school in such a good mood if I finish gilding a object that day!
It looks very messy at first because I first fold each leaf 1-2 times before applying, and also use as many leafs it needs to cover the whole surface.
Folding the leafs is really handy when you gilt a surface that has a lot of details and corners etc - that way you can make sure that cracks and missed spots can be covered by the second “layer” of leafs.
The leafs are REALLY REALLY thin, so it will cover every single detail of the objects if applied good. It will not “hide” cracks or even fingerprints that are left on the objects. So that’s why I’m wearing cotton gloves in the video!
This is a method you can learn pretty quickly as a novice, but you never apply real silver or golden leafs this way since it’d be such a waste of valuable metal. When it comes to silver and gold, there’s a little bit different method that I haven’t yet tried out myself.
More photos from school + some cool info about gilding that I’ve learned this far:
The three first photos shows the preparation process before adding the gold leafs (in my case it’ll be “imitation leafs” and not real gold).
Before I can apply the leafs I need to first coat the surface with several layers of lacquer. In my case I used shellac.
Once the area turn glossy and no longer matte, I can start to apply the “milk”.(I’m working on a plaster sculpture here btw)
Usually this “milk” is transparent, but you can add a little bit of a color pigment to make it visible. Makes it way easier to see if you have missed a spot.
The milk is going to be the adhesive for the metal leafs. Once applied, I’ll have to wait at least half an hour before I can continue. But it’s also possible to leave it for the night and start gilding the next day.
When you apply leafs that are not made of real gold you must wear a pair of cotton-made gloves.
The leaf will immediately stick to where you have added the milk. You polish the surface while wearing the cotton gloves, so you can easily use your fingers to rub away the leafs outside the milked areas. Also save the larger pieces that are left in a little glass jar for future use.
The last picture is from my very first gilding assignment. As you can see I missed some spots when adding the milk. Those can be fixed by just re-apply a little milk on the missing spots and add another leaf piece (I’ll prob use the leftover pieces for this instead of using a whole new one).
Next time I’m gonna learn how to apply paint around the gilt areas. :DDD
Working with screentones in Manga Studio 5 was interesting, I soon realized how much benefit you’ll have from having previous knowledge about how to work with traditional screentones.
If you’re ever going to use digital screentones in Manga Studio 5 then you really must remember some basic rules:
- the linecount matters a lot. Stick to 60L
- When you stack tones to create more density you must use tones of the same linecount.
- If you’re gonna stack tones with the same percentage and linecount, you need to move one of the tone layers a bit to the side, otherwise the dots will only overlap and when you export the image or merge the layers, there will be no difference. But it’s more efficient to just use a slightly lower or higher percentage.
- Screentones were made solely for printing purposes, they will create weird moiré patterns on a monitor. But they should not appear in printed format. If there is moiré on your printed artwork, then you need to oversee how you exported the image. (export it as a comic page, not as illustration).
(the tool is called “close and fill” and is a paint bucket sub tool)
I still have problems with the fill tool.. i have no idea how it works o.O;
This is my settings on the “close and fill” bucket tool. Make sure to have either white or transparent as your selected color. Please note that this works best on linearts that are set to either “monochrome” or “grayscale”. Some areas doesn’t get erased entirely and has to be erased normally, but this tool is seriously a savior when it comes to clean up small pixels on your scanned lineart.