Mirre's personal artblog
A 24 year old human who likes to draw stuff, especially comics. This is my personal artblog where I will post doodles, WIPs and finished artwork and also text posts with ignorant opinions. I'm doing my best. Enjoy your stay!
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Kolmården marble - Swedish Green

"Most people think that marble is white – but in fact it comes in several colours and nuances, of which white is one.

Kolmården marble is a unique stone from Sweden, with a variable green colour and attractive veining, thanks to serpentines in the stone. Kolmården marble’s origins and its unusual green colour is why it has come to be called Swedish Green.

Swedish Green is a fine-grained stone, and even though it is one of the hardest kinds of marble in the world, it is easy to saw and polish. The marble’s green colour and veining depends partly on where it was quarried and partly on how it is sawn. Every marble quarry has its unique patterns and colour combinations.”

This is definitely one of my favourite kinds of marble to paint in school. It’s very easy to learn and you can play around a lot with it.

How I style my mohawk



imagevanillafrappes15 asked:

How do you stick up your moehawk? I am planning on getting a faux hawk but have had 0 experience with spiking hair. ;u; I wanna keep some of my bangs too.><

Ah I’ll gladly share my knowledge!


Depending on how long your hair is, you might wanna style the hawk using two different methods:

1: hair gel or hair wax (works best for the really short hawks such as faux or hair spikes, however keep in mind that if you use too much you’ll only end up with sticky greasy hair)

2: Teasing with a comb and strong hairspray. (works best for longer hawks such as mohawks. Makes your hair thicker but will be damaged by all the teasing.)

Since I personally have only had a mohawk and not the shorter ones, I’m used to the second method. So I’m going to explain how I style it.


First off, the most important thing to get is this baby, OSIS+ Dust it:

I would say that this little bottle alone stands for at least 76% of the styling process. This is the secret to getting a lot of volume, it also makes is very much easier and faster to tease your hair.

You simply pour some of it in your hair bottom. I personally start with the sides of my mohawk and the work inwards. Take a little in the rest of the hair as well to give it an overall texture.

Secondly you need a comb. A good comb, the best one would be combs that are made to get rid of lice. When you tease your hair, you basically do the reverse movement than you do when you usually brush your hair. Start from bottom to top, make sure the bottom is well teased since that what makes the hawk stay upwards.

Then finish it with some hairspray. Make sure to buy a brand that is really strong and keeps your hair in one place.

Protip: use a hair-dryer while applying hairspray, not only will this make the hair stay in a very nice formation due to the air-direction, but it also will make the hairspray dry faster and turn twice as strong as it usually would.


When I ask my sister to cut my hair for a mohawk, we usually stick to this width. Imagine that they are aligned with the eyes. If you cut it more narrow than this, it might look more like a punk-rock ish kind of mohawk.

If you cut it wider than this, then it’ll look more like you’re just having a side cut on both sides of the head.


When it comes to styling you hawk, you can either go with a back-slicked design (aka a bit more mature/business) or you could let the tips of the hair remain un-teased to get that sleazy-rockstar ish look.

For bangs there’s many ways to go. it all depends on how you want it to look, I would keep a “layer” of my bangs non-styled so they can cover my forehead as usual, then let the layers on top of it gradually move upwards.


Also keep in mind that you can also just stick to teasing the hair on one side and let the other be. I personally often do this the day after i’ve been styling my hawk. (yes you can sleep with a styled mohawk it just gets a little bit messy and can easily be re-styled the day after with some small teasing).


As the shaved sides of your hair grows longer, you might wanna comb the sides a bit to follow the flow of the mohawk. You can technically style a mohawk without shaving the sides of your head at all, just make sure to separate the parts from each other with hair-pins or similar methods.


Also remember to always carry around a comb just in case parts of your hair falls out of place…


Your mohawk’s biggest enemy is the weather. Nuff said.


Teasing your hair on a daily basis will damage it. A lot. Like A LOT.

So remember the following:

- Do NOT try to brush out the teased hair, this will only make it even more damaged.

- To bring your hair back to “normal”, take a shower and use a lot of conditioner - hair treatment  masks and other stuff that has “for damaged hair” on it is also recommended. The conditioner makes it easier for the hair to even out almost on it’s own. I usually do this every third day or so.

- Do not brush the hair while it’s still wet, wait till it’s dry first.

- Have your hair un-styled some days in between so it can “rest” a little.

This is all great advice but I have a few personal points—

If your hair is clean and freshly or over conditioned, you’re gonna have a problem with your knots sliding out. When I’m up to it, I usually tease my hair when it’s almost time to shower. The grease helps it tangle more solidly, and gives you a good enough base that you won’t need nearly as much hairspray. 

If you don’t want to be nasty like me, after you wash your hair, spray it with hairspray, brush it through thoroughly, and flat-iron (I have moderately wavy hair that curls occasionally and it’s easier to tease when it’s straight) before starting to tease. This is HELL on your hair though, because 1, hairspray is gross, and 2, heat is bad. 

Lice combs work okay but there are combs specifically designed for teasing and personally, I find that they work better, on their own or together with thin-toothed combs. I have rather thick, smooth, healthy hair, even though it is bleach fried and dyed, and I use both these combs:



One of them is a simple Conair rattail comb, which I use to separate chunks of my hair to tease in little sections (which I recommend if your hair is anywhere near as long as mine; OP’s is short enough that they might be able to skip this, but for first timers, I’d err on the side of being really solid instead of stringy and separated) and do “detail work” near the very tips.

The other comb has three rows of tapered teeth. The brand wore off but I know I got it at Sally’s for like… less than 5 bucks. I use it in very short strokes near the roots, which gives me a REALLY solid base, and in longer strokes it gives you solid and big tangles in the rest of the body . Even without the help of another comb.

This picture is fairly old but it was done with just the teasing comb and hairspray during and after teasing:


As a point of clarification— when OP said start from bottom to top they (probably) meant to start at the back of your head near the nape of your neck and work upwards, toward your bangs. Which is correct. DO NOT START TEASING AT THE TIPS. You will end up with floppy, top-heavy knots at the ends with smooth roots. Start with quick strokes on small sections of hair, very close to the roots. Slowly work your way up to about 3/4 down the length, and then use a thinner comb to detail the ends. I usually go back and brush together the small chunks in increasingly larger sections, but if your hair’s short and fluffy enough you might not have to do this.

If you have fairly long hair and staying problems (and/or you started with recently conditioned hair), you might have to spray each section as you finish it, but if you’ve balanced it well and your hair isn’t super heavy, you can usually get away with a quick spray over all of it once you’re done.

You’re going to want to have your combs with you as well as at least a travel-size can of hairspray with you if you’re going out while ‘hawked. Rain, wind, doorways, cats, children, and other small animals, gravity, and time can all contribute to sagging and you’ll want to be able to refresh your height when it starts having problems.

^^^ some sweet extra protips! Thanks for contributing to this post! (and wow yes I should def go buy some new combs made for teasing next time)

Some photos I took from my favourite book “Color and Light” by James Gurney.

What I love the most with this book is that even if it’s focused on oil painting, Gurney mention digital art every now and then - something you rarely see in most art theory books. 

oh and did I mention the book contains dinosaurs?

Getting into the “Doodle Mode”

I love it when I find a really good youtube podcast channel that has a lot of videos that I can listen through while doodling.

I think the reason why it’s nice to listen to a podcast, the radio or a audio book, is that it can help you to easier get into the “doodle mode”.

And let’s be honest, like the majority of the drawings we manage to make started off as doodles done out of boredom or to keep us from feeling restless.

and so yeah I really recommend listening to podcasts. One of my favourites are Radiolab and TED talks. But right now I am going through Cheshire Cats Studios on youtube.

amytheartist replied to your post: Materials used: Pelikan Ink Brilliant …

Why did you not dip the g-pen in very far? I’m like 90% sure you’re supposed to dip far enough to cover the breathing hole in the middle, then scrape the underside of the nib against the top of the bottle lightly to remove any excess ink.

That’s odd, I have always been told NOT to dip the pen nib too deep; both by my comic teacher from college and from the books I own that introduced me to pen nibs back when I was a rookie.

I’ve never heard about covering the hole on the nib, but it would make sense since almost every pen nib has one.

It’s not like the way I dip my nibs is “doing it wrong”. The only difference is that the pen runs out of ink faster. And that hasn’t been a issue for me tbh.

I think it’s kind of a personal preference really.

Materials used:

  • Pelikan Ink Brilliant Black
  • Color Copy A4 300g/m2
  • Zebra G-Pen
  • Nikko G-pen
  • Sanji-Pen
  • Maru-Pen
Ok here&#8217;s a big frikking protip to anyone who consider making any kind of tutorial:

Make thumbnail sketches for the layout.
That can make a big frikking difference in how much attention it&#8217;ll get.

 (the stuff in the photo is from an old school project from &#8216;08-&#8216;09)

Ok here’s a big frikking protip to anyone who consider making any kind of tutorial:

Make thumbnail sketches for the layout.
That can make a big frikking difference in how much attention it’ll get.

(the stuff in the photo is from an old school project from ‘08-‘09)

after-alice replied to your post: Gold leafs are thin enough to pick up …

Awesome tip; my sister’s a writer so I’ve retumbld for her benefit :D Really interesting so thanks for sharing!

A little bit more information about how fngerprints can appear on gilded objects etc:

the skills of gilding is all about preparing the surface with the right base coating. It is adviced to not touch the area with bare hands since it can leave marks and fingerprints that will later be visible once you apply the gold leafs.

So if your sister wanna apply this little knowledge in a plot, remember that the fingerprints show up if a person touched the object before it’s coating is dry enough and before the metal leafs were applied.

Another nice thing to know is that a very skilled gilder can make brass look like it’s gold. Aka “cheating”, same goes for using aluminium leafs to fake silver or white gold.

The difference between brass leafs and actual gold leafs is that gold will stick on the object longer before it starts falling off after several years.

And also gold leafs that are 22karat and higher does not oxidate and loose it’s color.

There’s quite a range of different golds starting from White gold (only 6 karat) and up to 24karat gold.

There’s some pretty ones in this range, for example “moon gold” that is 22k but looks like a very very warm silver.<3

Gold leafs are thin enough to pick up your fingerprints! Might be a nice thing to know if you&#8217;re a writer ;-)

Gold leafs are thin enough to pick up your fingerprints! Might be a nice thing to know if you’re a writer ;-)

post-it-queen replied to your post: Ah here’s the video where I apply copp…

Woah it starts so messy and ends up so lovely, is this tricky? You seem to be having fun :)

Thanks! And yes this is such a relaxing and satisfying thing to do! I’d definitely recommend it as a hobby! I always leave school in such a good mood if I finish gilding a object that day!

It looks very messy at first because I first fold each leaf 1-2 times before applying, and also use as many leafs it needs to cover the whole surface.

Folding the leafs is really handy when you gilt a surface that has a lot of details and corners etc - that way you can make sure that cracks and missed spots can be covered by the second “layer” of leafs.

The leafs are REALLY REALLY thin, so it will cover every single detail of the objects if applied good. It will not “hide” cracks or even fingerprints that are left on the objects. So that’s why I’m wearing cotton gloves in the video!

This is a method you can learn pretty quickly as a novice, but you never apply real silver or golden leafs this way since it’d be such a waste of valuable metal. When it comes to silver and gold, there’s a little bit different method that I haven’t yet tried out myself.

Btw on a completely different note:

If you wanna get some great inspiration for tattoo designs then I strongly suggest you look up:

Woodcarving ornaments

a lot of the classic tattoes are influenced by this stuff. And I personaly love love LOVE the S and C-shaped ornament designs<3



trying out this sculptris program that I keep see on my dash.

Kinda neat but the 3D model somehow doesn’t… have any shadow or light source:


anyone who know how to use sculptris who might help me out? I cannot find anything about this in the manual (or I might have missed it idk)

this might be relevant to your issue- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbrloHwZyG4

Oh gosh thank you so much! Now I can finally try out 3D sculpting!!

More photos from school + some cool info about gilding that I’ve learned this far:

The three first photos shows the preparation process before adding the gold leafs (in my case it’ll be “imitation leafs” and not real gold).

Before I can apply the leafs I need to first coat the surface with several layers of lacquer. In my case I used shellac.

Once the area turn glossy and no longer matte, I can start to apply the “milk”.(I’m working on a plaster sculpture here btw)

Usually this “milk” is transparent, but you can add a little bit of a color pigment to make it visible. Makes it way easier to see if you have missed a spot.

The milk is going to be the adhesive for the metal leafs. Once applied, I’ll have to wait at least half an hour before I can continue. But it’s also possible to leave it for the night and start gilding the next day.

When you apply leafs that are not made of real gold you must wear a pair of cotton-made gloves.

The leaf will immediately stick to where you have added the milk. You polish the surface while wearing the cotton gloves, so you can easily use your fingers to rub away the leafs outside the milked areas. Also save the larger pieces that are left in a little glass jar for future use.

The last picture is from my very first gilding assignment. As you can see I missed some spots when adding the milk. Those can be fixed by just re-apply a little milk on the missing spots and add another leaf piece (I’ll prob use the leftover pieces for this instead of using a whole new one).

Next time I’m gonna learn how to apply paint around the gilt areas. :DDD

Working with screentones in Manga Studio 5 was interesting, I soon realized how much benefit you’ll have from having previous knowledge about how to work with traditional screentones.

If you’re ever going to use digital screentones in Manga Studio 5 then you really must remember some basic rules:

- the linecount matters a lot. Stick to 60L

- When you stack tones to create more density you must use tones of the same linecount.

- If you’re gonna stack tones with the same percentage and linecount, you need to move one of the tone layers a bit to the side, otherwise the dots will only overlap and when you export the image or merge the layers, there will be no difference. But it’s more efficient to just use a slightly lower or higher percentage.

- Screentones were made solely for printing purposes, they will create weird moiré patterns on a monitor. But they should not appear in printed format. If there is moiré on your printed artwork, then you need to oversee how you exported the image. (export it as a comic page, not as illustration).



MangaStudio is my fucking savior right now

(the tool is called “close and fill” and is a paint bucket sub tool)

I still have problems with the fill tool.. i have no idea how it works o.O;

This is my settings on the “close and fill” bucket tool. Make sure to have either white or transparent as your selected color. Please note that this works best on linearts that are set to either “monochrome” or “grayscale”. Some areas doesn’t get erased entirely and has to be erased normally, but this tool is seriously a savior when it comes to clean up small pixels on your scanned lineart.