Mirre's personal artblog
A 24 year old human who likes to draw stuff, especially comics. This is my personal artblog where I will post doodles, WIPs and finished artwork and also text posts with ignorant opinions. I'm doing my best. Enjoy your stay!
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Just got Corel Painter for the first time? Here’s a list of tips in what to do before starting to paint:

foervraengd:

A quick guide in what to do first of all with corel painter:

First go to preferences, this is the settings you should have in order to make sure you have as good performance as possible. This is the preferences for painter 12, so if some of the options is not available in your version, then you can just skip it.:

  • on the interface menu, make sure you do NOT have “enchanted brush ghost” selected. Pick only “brush ghost”. This increase the performance a lot by some weird reason.
  • After that, go to “performance”, if you have an external harddrive connected to your computer, select that drive as “scratch disc”(you can do this with photoshop as well).
  • If you have more than 1 multicore, then lower the number. Do NOT set multicore on max, since that will make Corel lag if you run other programs (such as iTunes) in the background.
  • Also uncheck the boxes “smooth objects when zooming” and “increase drawing speed when zoomed out”.
  • Another thing that is good to know is that if you work on a picture where the file is on a external harddrive or USB, it can also make the program lag. So make sure that all your .RIF-workfiles are on the computers own harddrive.

Interface settings:

If you work on a painting and you notice that the black on the canvas is actually not 100% black, then you should go to CANVAS> Color Management Settings.

  • If the default RGB profile is set to “sRGB IEC61966-2-1 noBPC” then you just change it to “withBPC” in the drop-down menu. “BPC” stands for “Black Point Correction” and is a setting you should only use if the drawing/painting is going to be printed(like a comic page for example). But otherwise, you won’t need it. This is very common thing that people stumble upon with Corel that they don’t know how to fix. So now you know it already.
  • Make sure to have “color proofing mode” turned OFF when you start on a new painting.
  • If you have Painter 12, then you can create your own “brush pallet” by simply holding shift and then click+drag the selected brush onto the workspace. Having a brush palette is very handy since you won’t need to use the drop-down menu for the brushes. In older versions, you only need to click and drag.
  • GO SET UP THE BRUSH TRACKER!!!!! You’ll find it in Preferences>Brush Tracking. I cannot stress you guys enough about how important this is in order to get good pen pressure on your brushes. If you feel like the velocity/pen pressure isn’t looking like you expect, then go and edit the brush tracker. All you need to do is to draw some lines on the window like you’d usually do when drawing.

Since there’s so few guides out there in how to set up Painter for beginners, I made this little guide. Many of these tips are important for the performance. People who aren’t aware of these things will often give up on using corel since it might start to lag and similar things. But if you fix these things mentioned, you’ll have the program running much better.

Reblogging again after I realized that I made this very huge mistake with the color management settings. So this should be the accurate info.

I’m experimenting with the whole “values + overlay coloring” technique. And I found some fun little things that I felt like writing down.

I often enjoy monochrome value-paintings more than grayscale. Mainly because it helps me establish the general “mood” in the painting. Now, to ease the coloring part, you can just take a overlay layer above the values painting and apply colors (keep in mind that the colors must all have the same value or you’ll end up with over-saturated shit).

Now, when I’m blending the values in Painter. I tend to just use the eraser and then blend it out in order to add more light. But as we all know, pure white doesn’t contain any trace of color, so when I blended it out with the more saturated blue, the midtone became less saturated than the shadows.

This made the colors appear warmer at those areas.

Let me explain a little bit further by using some screenshots:

This is the value layer, the one you do either monochrome or in grayscale. This is where the darkness of an object and the shadows it casts are applied. It’s on this layer you decide for example if the hair is going to be light or dark.

Now, notice that I gave the shadows a bit more saturated blue here, but added light gray on the areas where the highlight falls.

Now let’s blend those values to get some nice gradation and then turn on the overlay-layer…

Bam! We now have some warmer highlights that pops out of the picture!

The reason why this happens is because the gray color wont affect the color from the overlay layer. You could say that the less saturation on the value layer, the more will the saturation on the ocerlay layer take over.


And that was the little protip of today that I could provide :3 now I’m off to bed!

I just figured out how to add textures SUPER EASY on brushes in corel Painter.
I feel almost liek an idiot now hahah. But oh man<3

(the texture is changed after what paper you set it to, which is at the bottom of the tool-menu)

I just figured out how to add textures SUPER EASY on brushes in corel Painter.

I feel almost liek an idiot now hahah. But oh man<3

(the texture is changed after what paper you set it to, which is at the bottom of the tool-menu)

Experimenting in finding a technique that suits me when it comes to paint detailed stuff like foliage in nature.

Please note that the program I use is Corel Painter 12 - not SAI or Photoshop.

I noticed that if I reduced the resaturation of my favourite painting brush to 3-4%, it got more affected by the background color. This is something I appreciate, since I love the thought of giving a painting a certain color theme.

Please note that on the two last pictures, I used the same green colors on each background color. But depending on which background color I use, the “primary and secondary” colors appears as either cooler or warmer.

So, my final conclusion is that it’s ALWAYS a better idea to start with the darkest values, and then add the midtones/highlights afterwards.

The size, shape and length of the strokes will also affect the overall appearance of the foliage. I recommend people who are afraid of painting foliage backgrounds to observe photographs/real life study.

Ask yourself:

- How will a bush/tree/grass look like if I use small and round strokes? And how would long, thin strokes make it appear?

- How would it appear if I used a different color than green for the foliage?

- How many different designs of bushes, grass, plants and trees can I paint/draw without looking at a reference? 

- How can I paint a green forest without the risk to make it appear “monochrome”?

I just discovered that Corel Painter have marker brush tools that are adglhdsfgldjsfgsjfvj artgasmic.

why are people not using Painter, it&#8217;s keeps surprising me with new stuff.

I just discovered that Corel Painter have marker brush tools that are adglhdsfgldjsfgsjfvj artgasmic.

why are people not using Painter, it’s keeps surprising me with new stuff.

Just got Corel Painter for the first time? Here’s a list of tips in what to do before starting to paint:

A quick guide in what to do first of all with corel painter:

First go to preferences, this is the settings you should have in order to make sure you have as good performance as possible. This is the preferences for painter 12, so if some of the options is not available in your version, then you can just skip it.:

  • on the interface menu, make sure you do NOT have “enchanted brush ghost” selected. Pick only “brush ghost”. This increase the performance a lot by some weird reason.
  • After that, go to “performance”, if you have an external harddrive connected to your computer, select that drive as “scratch disc”(you can do this with photoshop as well).
  • If you have more than 1 multicore, then lower the number. Do NOT set multicore on max, since that will make Corel lag if you run other programs (such as iTunes) in the background.
  • Also uncheck the boxes “smooth objects when zooming" and "increase drawing speed when zoomed out”.
  • Another thing that is good to know is that if you work on a picture where the file is on a external harddrive or USB, it can also make the program lag. So make sure that all your .RIF-workfiles are on the computers own harddrive.

Interface settings:

If you work on a painting and you notice that the black on the canvas is actually not 100% black, then you should go to CANVAS> Color Management Settings.

  • If the default RGB profile is set to “sRGB IEC61966-2-1 noBPC" then you just change it to “withBPC” in the drop-down menu. “BPC” stands for "Black Point Correction" and is a setting you should only use if the drawing/painting is going to be printed(like a comic page for example). But otherwise, you won’t need it. This is very common thing that people stumble upon with Corel that they don’t know how to fix. So now you know it already.
  • Make sure to have “color proofing mode” turned OFF when you start on a new painting.
  • If you have Painter 12, then you can create your own “brush pallet” by simply holding shift and then click+drag the selected brush onto the workspace. Having a brush palette is very handy since you won’t need to use the drop-down menu for the brushes. In older versions, you only need to click and drag.
  • GO SET UP THE BRUSH TRACKER!!!!! You’ll find it in Preferences>Brush Tracking. I cannot stress you guys enough about how important this is in order to get good pen pressure on your brushes. If you feel like the velocity/pen pressure isn’t looking like you expect, then go and edit the brush tracker. All you need to do is to draw some lines on the window like you’d usually do when drawing.

Since there’s so few guides out there in how to set up Painter for beginners, I made this little guide. Many of these tips are important for the performance. People who aren’t aware of these things will often give up on using corel since it might start to lag and similar things. But if you fix these things mentioned, you’ll have the program running much better.

I use the blender brush for painting hair, but I use it more as a way to blur certain areas instead of blending the whole thing.
I always use pointed stump as blender. I made a VERY quick and rough walkthrough to show you how you make realistic hair in painter.
The techniques used in this walkthrough is more or less like many other hair-walkthroughs.

So we start with a dark base, this is for blonde hair. Use the blender with 20% opacity to blend out the edges of the hair.

Now, with the same oil brush (smeary round with dab profile set to &#8220;circular&#8221;) I sketch out the strands or hair. it&#8217;s good if they cross each other a little bit, don&#8217;t make the lines too uniform - hair tends to separate into &#8220;sections&#8221; more or less. Which we will discover soon&#8230;

Now it&#8217;s time to use the blender. Set the opacity to 10% and decrease the size of the blender (otherwise it will turn out just like you said; lumpy).
MAJOR PROTIP: Blurring the ends of the hair will make it look more realistic and less like spaghetti.

Now it&#8217;s time to create these so called &#8220;sections&#8221; I mentioned earlier. By blending only certain areas, we can create a very realistic result. Blend areas where the light brushstrokes are closer to each other, and leave the darker gaps as they are.

This is how it turned out for me. Please note that the size of the brush matter a lot here, it&#8217;s still set to 10% opacity.

Continue like this over the whole area, this is how it turned out for me.

Let&#8217;s add some highlights, shall we? Take an even smaller sized brush and place the strokes after the hair structure (very important).
The trick for realistic hair is to pick a certain area as slightly more detailed/sharper than the rest.

Repeat the same process as before, but make sure that you don&#8217;t use too big strokes for the blender. Blurring the edges has always worked well for me.
this method can be used in photoshop as well, with the blur tool. but Painter&#8217;s blenders are slightly more efficient. I hope this helps you out :)

I use the blender brush for painting hair, but I use it more as a way to blur certain areas instead of blending the whole thing.

I always use pointed stump as blender. I made a VERY quick and rough walkthrough to show you how you make realistic hair in painter.

The techniques used in this walkthrough is more or less like many other hair-walkthroughs.

So we start with a dark base, this is for blonde hair. Use the blender with 20% opacity to blend out the edges of the hair.

Now, with the same oil brush (smeary round with dab profile set to “circular”) I sketch out the strands or hair. it’s good if they cross each other a little bit, don’t make the lines too uniform - hair tends to separate into “sections” more or less. Which we will discover soon…

Now it’s time to use the blender. Set the opacity to 10% and decrease the size of the blender (otherwise it will turn out just like you said; lumpy).

MAJOR PROTIP: Blurring the ends of the hair will make it look more realistic and less like spaghetti.

Now it’s time to create these so called “sections” I mentioned earlier. By blending only certain areas, we can create a very realistic result. Blend areas where the light brushstrokes are closer to each other, and leave the darker gaps as they are.

This is how it turned out for me. Please note that the size of the brush matter a lot here, it’s still set to 10% opacity.

Continue like this over the whole area, this is how it turned out for me.

Let’s add some highlights, shall we? Take an even smaller sized brush and place the strokes after the hair structure (very important).

The trick for realistic hair is to pick a certain area as slightly more detailed/sharper than the rest.


Repeat the same process as before, but make sure that you don’t use too big strokes for the blender. Blurring the edges has always worked well for me.

this method can be used in photoshop as well, with the blur tool. but Painter’s blenders are slightly more efficient. I hope this helps you out :)

Vinterdraken by =FOERVRAENGD
A speedpainting I did. I call it speedpainting because I did it in 2 hours, and I don&#8217;t finish a painting that fast usually.Made in Corel Painter 12

Vinterdraken by =FOERVRAENGD

A speedpainting I did. I call it speedpainting because I did it in 2 hours, and I don’t finish a painting that fast usually.

Made in Corel Painter 12

lol yeah I had to browse through all I missed on tumblr before uploading this heh.

BEHOLD - One of my very first 100% shoujo desu kawaii ne-drawings.
AND I REGRET NOTHING HAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

So um yeah, this is Scandinavian Easter Themed illustration of a Påskkärring - Easter Witch! 
(link with info about Påskkärringar/Easter Witches: LINK!). 
And yeah I know, I am pretty early with all the easter-themed pictures. But if I don&#8217;t do them now, I will forget to do them later. So when easter comes closer, I will upload this on deviantart in a slightly better resolution.

I have been heavily inspired by the works of Namie-Kun on DeviantArt, and I don&#8217;t give a shit if she&#8217;s giving the characters &#8220;the same faces&#8221; - she still knows anatomy, perspective and color theory good enough for being placed in my top-ten of favourite-anime artists.
This drawing was also a experiment in how much I actually know about Corel Painter. I learned a lot, I made a new custom brush that is hfkbdbdk&lt;3 and I learned some new things. Like for example that you can make really really nice lineart in Corel if you find the right brush for it.
Note to self: corel Painter 12 lags a lot when livestreaming. crap.
Note to self: don&#8217;t use shitloads of layers next time. And try making the flats in corel instead of Photoshop.

lol yeah I had to browse through all I missed on tumblr before uploading this heh.

BEHOLD - One of my very first 100% shoujo desu kawaii ne-drawings.

AND I REGRET NOTHING HAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

So um yeah, this is Scandinavian Easter Themed illustration of a Påskkärring - Easter Witch! 

(link with info about Påskkärringar/Easter Witches: LINK!). 

And yeah I know, I am pretty early with all the easter-themed pictures. But if I don’t do them now, I will forget to do them later. So when easter comes closer, I will upload this on deviantart in a slightly better resolution.

I have been heavily inspired by the works of Namie-Kun on DeviantArt, and I don’t give a shit if she’s giving the characters “the same faces” - she still knows anatomy, perspective and color theory good enough for being placed in my top-ten of favourite-anime artists.

This drawing was also a experiment in how much I actually know about Corel Painter. I learned a lot, I made a new custom brush that is hfkbdbdk<3 and I learned some new things. Like for example that you can make really really nice lineart in Corel if you find the right brush for it.

Note to self: corel Painter 12 lags a lot when livestreaming. crap.

Note to self: don’t use shitloads of layers next time. And try making the flats in corel instead of Photoshop.

Painting Tabias face - lots of process pics

THAT GODDAMN NOSE